HARES IN THE SEA, SARDINES IN THE HILLS

Some facts we don't hear about in the news.

Omega 3 (Ω3) is a polyunsaturated fatty acid (good cholesterol).  Essential to our lives, we obtain it from, for example, sesame, nuts, and oily fish.  As far as healthy cholesterol levels go, the most important fact is the proportion of Ω6/Ω3 (Omega 6 is another polyunsaturated fat); it is recommended that it be no more than 4 to 1. 

Milk labels in stores mention "fat" and that's it.  Labels on milk enriched with Ω3 differentiate between fats but do not indicate the Ω6/Ω3 proportion. 

Various scientific studies show that the milk from cows that graze in pastures or eat fresh grass contain the recommended proportion of Ω6/Ω3, while the milk of cows with an elevated amount of concentrated feed in their diet have too much Ω6 and too little Ω3, as well as a larger proportion of saturated fats.1

Partial logic, total outrage

The logic that gives rise to the birth of functional foods like Omega 3-enriched milk is overwhelming.  Let's have a look. A commercial sensitivity exists regarding serious health problems related to excessive consumption of saturated fat.  Milk is a food that contains fat (saturated and unsaturated).  Later I skim it and eliminate all types of fat.  I then sell the fat or use it in other products (creams and butters).2 Given the current need to differentiate skimming alone it is not particularly striking.  But what if I add good cholesterol to it? I extract Ω3 from oily fish, put it in standard skim milk, and there you have it: milk that is not only not bad for cholesterol, but good for it.  

Is this true?  The view of diverse experts consulted can be summed up like this: In the majority of cases, it has not been demonstrated that either enrichment dosages or the enriched product is the most adequate means of reaching the desired objective.3 And the fact is this debate unravels in relativism: nothing is true or false; everything is coloured by the lens through which it is perceived.

 

But let's take things a step further than this debate.  If we want non-fat milk with sufficient Ω3, why does the industry continue demanding of cattle farmers high levels of generic fat, thereby fomenting the use of concentrated feed that imbalances the proportion of Ω6/Ω3? Why is a cattle farmer that pastures his livestock and therefore produces milk with a salubrious proportion of Ω6/Ω3 punished economically for producing milk low in saturated fat?  Why in the 21st century are fats spoken about as if they were all the same?  Why with current cholesterol problems is excessive consumption of dairy products continuously and deceptively recommended?

 

The "overwhelming logic" that we mentioned before is in fact a partial logic that makes sense only in marketing departments – a logic that considers food a detachable object from which pieces are extracted and into which they are inserted, not the result of a process originating with the land and animals.  In fact, in the course of our research, we observed indifference or surprise in the majority of experts consulted (cattle farmers, industry, researchers) regarding how to obtain certain qualities in the final product based on the manner in which animals are fed.  And it is out of this partial logic that the notion of functional food emerges, which views health and diet in a segmented way: This aspect of health has to do with this nutrient; if I consume it in large doses I'm covered.         

 

Segmenting the process in search only of partial logic ultimately generates total outrage: the society of global cholesterol, with lucrative enriched milk from large impoverished cows and empty pastures and villages.  A logic that does not allow us to see that the Omega 3 of sardines is now running through the hills.  Why don't we see it?    

 


1. Various studies.  The Puleva Omega 3 Institute (Spain) knows of the occurrence of this phenomenon but plays down the importance of the quality of fats from milk due to the fact that all are lost in skimming. 

2. Spain exports fat from milk because high levels of fat are demanded of cattle farmers but we consume little butter and cream.

3. Researcher in nutrition at the Institute of Refrigeration of the Spanish National Research Council.